Dog-to-Dog Introductions in the Shelter & Beyond

Dogs experience a variety of potential stressors in the animal shelter that could negatively impact their welfare, such as excessive noise, spatial restrictions, social isolation, loss of attachment figures, and lack of control & predictability. As we strive to save the lives of more dogs in shelter, our obligation to supporting the behavior & welfare of the dogs in our care is more important than ever.

Why is social interaction important in the shelter? It allows for dogs to engage in species-specific behavior, a measure of best welfare practices that can be indicative of positive wellbeing. By using humane practices that reduce the use of aversive techniques, we can increase dogs’ social skills, increase their comfort with people, and improve shelter dog welfare. Supporting dog social skills helps dogs in the shelter develop and maintain behaviors with other dogs that can be helpful in life after the shelter.

There are many challenges to good interactions between dogs in the animal shelter! Dogs are often confined 20-24 hours a day with limited appropriate social contact and are often exposed to unwanted behavior from other dogs, such as barking or lunging when passing by. Additionally, many dogs in shelters have often not been well-socialized with other dogs or may even have a previous interaction history with other dogs that was negative.

With all these challenges to good dog-to-dog behavior, let’s not assume dogs are going to get it right. When we make that assumption, we rely on aversives (leash corrections, shake cans, hoses, air horns) to eliminate unwanted behavior in hopes that good behavior will emerge. But is that a reasonable expectation in the shelter with dogs of unknown or poor socialization histories? Plus, do we really want dogs in already compromised welfare states potentially associating these aversives with other dogs or people?

Instead, let’s help them build, transfer, & maintain these skills in the shelter & beyond by setting them up for success

What behaviors do we want to see in dog interactions? Polite approaches, initiating the interaction appropriately, reading cut-off signals from the other dog, having the ability to self-interrupt and de-escalate, self-handicap during interactions (to adjust to the other dog’s size or comfort level) as well as maintain a relationship with their human - such as returning when called or doing check-ins around the other dog.

Starting the Introduction Off on the Right Paw: When introducing two dogs together on leash, first impressions matter. Set up the interaction for success: use a harness and leash, instead of a slip leash or collar only, to reduce tension around your dog’s neck. Bring along plenty of high value treats, such as hot dogs or cheese, to reward good behavior - such as a loose leash, looking back at you (especially after looking at the other dog), and relaxed body language (such soft eyes & ears, loose body, neutral tail position).

Provide plenty of space between the dogs: at least 20-30 feet. Outdoors is best with grass and other natural elements. Provide lots of treats, so your dog learns that good things happen when meeting new dogs. Let the dogs get comfortable: allow them to explore the environment or just sniff around. We want to see other behaviors besides making a beeline to meet the other dog. If the dogs are barking or straining on-leash, both handlers can increase the distance and more often reward their dogs for good behavior. There’s no harm in going slow. Remember, this may be the first time this dog has met another dog at the shelter.

Parallel Walking Together: If both dogs are loose and comfortable, start a staggered parallel walk. Provide at least 15 feet between the dogs and have the more relaxed dog ahead and the less comfortable dog behind. This will help the less comfortable dog close the distance at his/her own pace. Again, this isn’t a march-to-meet but a casual walk that happens to include another dog. If there is pulling on the leash, slow down & increase how often you’re rewarding.

As both dogs relax, gradually decrease the distance and staggering between the dogs. Make sure you’re still rewarding your dog for relaxed behavior, and the other dog is also comfortable. Concerning body language that would require more space includes hackles up, hard staring, forward body posture, and ears forward with a high “alert” tail. If one or both of the dogs are repeatedly barking, lunging, or growling at each other, end the interaction & find a more suitable match.

Movement is key when you’re parallel walking. Don’t remain still or standing, especially if your leash is tight or one or both dogs are staring at each other. As the dogs continue to take treats & check in, close the distance - but increase how often you’re rewarding. Do quick drive-bys where the dogs sniff each other’s sides or behinds. Keep leashes loose & interactions short, calling the dogs away with happy noises after just a few seconds and rewarding when the dogs shift their focus to the handler and walk away from each other.

As these initial positive interactions go well, continue to increase the amount of time the dogs are spending in these “happy hellos.” The dogs should continue to display loose, relaxed movement while walking alongside each other and their handlers.

Fence Greetings & Interactions: Continue your walk towards an enclosed yard, having one dog enter the yard, and allowing them to greet through the fence. Handlers should still be holding leashes, but make sure there is no tension on the leash. Keep interactions short and sweet (just a few seconds), and reward your dog generously for relaxed behavior and coming away from the fence. Repeat a few times.

If both dogs are comfortable at the fence, have the other dog enter the play yard and allow both dogs to greet each other casually with the handlers keeping the dogs on loose leashes. You need to be moving as much as your dog to keep the leashes loose!

If both dogs are enjoying the interaction and continue coming back for more, drop the leashes. Call the dogs back often to give the dogs a break, even if they look like they don’t want one. They can always go back for more! During these interactions, we want to see good back-and-forth action, that give-and-take of chasing or wrestling that makes for healthy dog interactions. Look for activity changes, like running, then stopping to take a water or sniff break. The dogs should be able to turn it on and then turn it off.

If either dog is attempting to walk away or avoid the other dog, don’t force the interaction. Provide breaks by picking up the leads and using high-pitched noises or clapping to move the dogs away from each other. During these breaks, check-in with your dog and see if they want to continue or would like to end the interaction.

Throughout this introduction process, continue monitoring both dogs. Their comfort level can change quickly, and these first encounters can leave strong impressions & influence future interactions.

At Home: Advice for Harmonious Fostering & Post-Adoption

When bringing your resident and shelter dog home, they should travel separately in the car. This can be accomplished by using a crate, car harnesses, a front-and-backseat barrier, or riding in two cars.

Set the dogs up for success once you arrive home by beginning in neutral spaces before moving to your yard and finally indoors. Have a friend or family member assist you in taking the dogs for a walk together. Continue rewarding the dogs for relaxed behavior in the presence of the other dog.

If the dogs remain comfortable with each other, bring them into your backyard for more opportunity to interact off-leash. If there are toys or bones in the backyard, pick these up before the dogs enter to avoid any potential conflicts. Remember, this is still the “getting to know you” phase, and we want to see that back-and-forth action that were mentioned before. 

As these interactions enter spaces that are familiar to the resident dog, watch for changes in behavior. Look for stiffening, staring, barking, growling, or lunging around preferred locations, items, or people. Instead, we want to see less tension as the dogs (particularly the resident) settle into the home.

Once the dogs have had the opportunity to interact and possibly release some energy, bring the dogs inside. As with the backyard, make sure any items, such as toys, food bowls, even beds, are put away to avoid conflict. Bring the dogs into the most open space in your home, so they have plenty of room to move.

Continue monitoring the dogs’ interactions, giving the shelter dog and resident dog plenty of breaks from one another, even if they’re really enjoying each other’s company. Remember, they’ll happily come back together if they’re liking each other’s company! Interactions breaks are as simple as putting the dogs in separate rooms, using a baby gate, or crate if the dogs are okay with confinement. 

Remember to always feed the dogs separately. Anything that one dog receives, such as a bed or attention, make sure the other does as well. If you need to leave the house for any duration of time or cannot supervise the dogs, separate them to avoid any potential conflicts where you would not be able to intervene or determine why the conflict occurred.